Tuesday, September 27, 2011

2004 & 2005 Collemattoni Brunello di Montalcino Trio for a great price. Amazing wines.

Astonishingly Well-Priced Brunellos From an Acclaimed Producer

Text from Janine Lettieri, the sommelier at Le Bernardin and the Waverly Inn:

As a sommelier at Le Bernardin and the Waverly Inn, I sold all of the big-boy Brunellos: Soldera, Biondi Santi and Gaja. Yes, they were great, but all of them are incredibly expensive. In terms of quality, Collemattoni wines can stand their ground against these legends. But coming from a small, up-and-coming winery, Collemattoni’s wines are much more affordable. This trio offers a delicious introduction.

Collemattoni was founded in 1984 by Aldo Bucci, the father of the current owner, Marcello. Bucci has a predilection for tradition, and his wines seduce with their purity and elegance. This wine is matured more than three years before release – two and a half in Slovenian oak, one in bottle.

It is vinified from 100 percent Sangiovese Grosso, a small-berry clone of Sangiovese that gives Brunello di Montalcino its structure and nobility. Collemattoni practices organic viticulture, transitioning over the last of the vineyards in 2011.

Tasting Notes
2004 Collemattoni Brunello di Montalcino
This wine is deeply aromatic, with a beautiful bouquet of exotic spices, black flowers, trampled rose petals, sweet black cherry and currant. Sweet toasty oak coats the palate, and the tannins are ample and velvety. This is mouth-filling and rich, with incredible concentration for a normale Brunello. This is a wine of great body and intensity, yet it is still balanced and supremely elegant. It can withstand serious long-term aging; I recommend cellaring this for 10 to 15 years.

2005 Collemattoni Brunello di Montalcino
Slightly more restrained than the 2004 and a bit less concentrated, this is still my favorite of the two wines for early drinking. It is high-toned, with alluring aromas of earth, smoke, fruit, flowers and spice. Succulent dark fruits, such as ripe black cherry and sugary plum, round out the palate. It exhibits more drying tannins and higher acidity than the 2004, making for a well-structured wine. Cellar this Brunello for at least 10 years.

Serving Suggestion
Decant both wines at least one hour before serving.

Food Pairing
Pair either of these Brunellos with a classic Tuscan pasta dish, such as pappardelle topped with rabbit ragù and garnished with olives, sage and Parmesan.

—Janine Lettieri

Critic Reviews

Wine Spectator
2004 Brunello di Montalcino
“Delivers fabulous aromas of crushed raspberries, cherries and strawberries, with flowers and a hint of vanilla bean. Full-bodied, with a solid core of fruit and silky tannins. Dense and very long. A serious, powerful and complex red, but needs some bottle age. This is the producer’s best wine ever. Best after 2012.”
—James Suckling (2009)
Wine & Spirits
2004 Brunello di Montalcino
“A young Brunello that’s turned in on itself, this yields little more than the black mineral earthiness of Sangiovese tannin. Air brings up scents of porcini, sour cherry, iron and thyme. For all the power of its profound structure, the wine is still mouthwatering. A candidate for long-term aging, this will likely be at its best 10 to 12 years from the vintage.”
The Wine Advocate
2004 Brunello di Montalcino
“The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is a big, brawny wine loaded with ripe dark fruit, new leather, spices and earthiness. The wine blossoms onto the palate in a rich, expansive style as masses of perfumed fruit come to life. This is an especially dense, concentrated wine, and the tannins need some time to melt away, but readers who can be patient will be rewarded with a splendid Brunello. Anticipated maturity: 2014 to 2024.”
—Antonio Galloni (June 2009)
The Wine Advocate
2005 Brunello di Montalcino
“The 2005 Brunello di Montalcino shows lovely density and purity in an up-front style. Dark red cherries, flowers and sweet spices sit on a medium- to full-bodied frame. The tannins are a touch firm yet beautifully integrated. The wine opens up nicely in the glass, with floral, spiced notes that reappear on the delicate finish. ... This is a lovely effort from Collemattoni. The 2005 Brunello is made from vineyards in Sesta (50 percent), Sant’Angelo in Colle (30 percent) and Castelnuovo dell’Abate (20 percent). Today the wine is quite primary, but it should develop nicely in bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2010 to 2020.”
—Antonio Galloni (April 2010)
Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar
2005 Brunello di Montalcino
“Good deep, bright red. Complex, varietally expressive aromas of violet, rose, red currant and ripe red cherry. Suave and fine-grained, with a downright silky texture and noteworthy precision to its red fruit and floral flavors. Finishes sappy and long, with sweet, very fine tannins and a lingering floral nuance. A beautiful Brunello that displays sneaky concentration.”
—Ian d’Agata (July 2010)

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